Mexico City. It amazes me. We visited for the third time and still could not possibly see all it has to offer. Rich with history, culture and food, it is one of my favorite cities in the world. If you think Mexico is only beaches and tacos, you are missing out. Mexico City Third Time’s a Charm.
Why Third Time?
I had avoided Mexico City, assuming that a city of 23 million people could not be charming. The largest city in North America (New York City is 9 million), Mexico City seemed daunting to me. But in late 2021, when Mexico was one of the few places open for travel, we decided to visit for a five day food tour organized for us by Eat Like a Local Mexico. Here is the post I wrote following that unique experience Eating My Way Through Mexico City.
And I was smitten. After the first visit we realized how much more there was to see and do beyond just food! So two years later we returned, to eat and to discover more deeply this remarkable city. Here is my report from that lovely experience So Much to Love About Mexico City.
So here we are again in 2026 Mexico City Third Time’s a Charm. On this visit we set out to see more new to us areas of this amazing city, as well as one day trip. We also took advantage of revisiting three of our favorites. Let me tell you all about Mexico City Third Time’s a Charm.
What’s so Special
In a word, it’s the people. Not just in Mexico City, but everyone we have met throughout Mexico are incredibly kind and happy. They are kind to each other and to visitors. So much laughter. They are patriotic, and proud of the diverse history and culture they share. Religion and faith play a big part of their lives. When we stumble with the language, someone comes to the rescue. They love it when a visitor uses small amounts of Spanish. Never mocking. Just helping.
History of Mexico City
You might be surprised to know, Mexico City is built on top of a lake. This giant city began on an island in what was once a lake. Today Mexico City has structural issues because of it. Here is some history to understand it a bit better;
Mexico City, the oldest capital in the Americas, was founded as the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan on an island in Lake Texcoco in 1325. Tenochtitlan, evolved into the senior partner of the Aztec Triple Alliance that dominated central Mexico immediately prior to the Spanish conquest of 1519–1521. At its height, Tenochtitlan had enormous temples and palaces, a huge ceremonial center, and residences of political, religious, military, and merchants. Its population was estimated at least 100,000 and perhaps as high as 200,000 in 1519 when the Spaniards first saw it. During the final stage of the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire, Spanish forces razed Tenochtitlan. Because it was strategically and politically important, invader Hernán Cortés founded the Spanish colonial capital of Mexico City on its ruins, becoming the center of Spanish colonial power. (Edited from Wikipedia)
Today’s city of 23 million people stretches 1,485 to 1,525 square kilometers (571–589 square miles), with the remains of the original Tenochtitlan found in what is known today as El Zocalo, the heart of the city.
Hidden Gems and Old Favorites
Now that I know this city better, I realize how many hidden gems there are, and how hard it is to really see it in one visit. So, let’s try three times. First, let me tell you about three Old Favorites;
Old Favorite
Ballet Folkloric – Our second visit to this beautiful show was just as good as the first time. Now in its 67th year, if you come to Mexico City and don’t see this performance of traditional Mexican dance, you haven’t seen Mexico City. I would go a third time if I visit again. The theater is stunning.
Eat Like a Local – Our third time doing a food tour with Eat Like a Local. I believe this company to be the best food tour companies in the world. And guess what? They just were featured in the New York Times. They have grown and gotten even better since we first got to know them in 2021. Spend a little extra and enjoy the hidden foods of CDMX with Eat Like a Local Mexico. You won’t regret it.
El Zocalo – The heart of Mexico City is the El Zocalo also known as Constitution Square. Always something going on, always something entertaining, Zocalo is a must. Here you find the center of Aztec Tenochtitlán, known as the Teocalli. As well as the home and offices of Mexico’s President, the National Palace (see more about this below). And standing sentry over it all is the Catedral Metropolitana, an icon of the city. Construction began in 1573 but took 240 years to complete. Don’t miss it.
Hidden Gems
National Palace – tricky to get the free ticket, but you should try. The National Palace is home to Mexico’s President, as well as her office. It is a high-security building, but visitors are allowed in to view the remarkable Diego Rivera murals that took him 21 years to paint. Tickets are not available online or by phone. You must go to the office located at #4 Moneda Street at 9:30am and wait in line to get a reserved time. Come back at your reserved time. You must have ID and no bags or purses allowed (you can check it), only cell phones and wallets. Totally worth the trouble. One of the best things to see in all of Mexico City.
Temple Mayor – on our first visit to CDMX we did a walking tour, and visited the ruins of Tenochtitlan in the Zocalo. But we did not realize until this visit, what gem of a museum is included at this historic site. We had intended on revisiting the Anthropology Museum, but opted to do Temple Mayor instead, and I am so very glad we did. Allow plenty of time for this remarkable museum of the history of this Aztec site and of Mexico. You will find this easily at El Zocalo.
In the Tepeyac Neighborhood
Basilica Guadelupe – this vast complex is a very important site for the very devout Catholic people of Mexico. Even if you are not Catholic, or even religious, it’s fascinating to visit. The complex is made up of multiple churches, and shrines including the shrine at the top of the hill commemorating the miracle. In 1531 an apparition of the Virgin Mary appeared to indigenous peasant St. Juan Diego on Tepeyac Hill. She requested a shrine, and as proof for the bishop, she caused roses to bloom in winter and imprinted her image on Juan Diego’s tilma (cloak), which remains intact after nearly 500 years. The faithful make pilgrimages here and it is a very important shrine.
Today several of the churches are sinking (very visible) and after the 1985 earthquake there was much damage. A new, giant and very modern church is now part of the complex. The site offers both history and a fascinating opportunity to see the customs and faith of the local people who make pilgrimage to Basilica Guadelupe. It’s easy to take th subway to the complex from the historic center.
And There is More
Diego Rivera Mural Museum Museo Mural Diego Rivera – Established in 1988 specifically to house the 1947 mural “Sueño de una tarde dominical en la Alameda Central” (Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central), which was saved after the 1985 earthquake. Following the devastating earthquake, this mural, which had been in the lobby of the Ritz Hotel, was quickly secured. The hotel was a complete loss. This new museum was designed specifically to house this important work of art of Rivera. Diego Rivera is an iconic figure of Mexico City.
It’s important to note that the main museum of Rivera’s work is located in the CDMX neighborhood of Coyacan. Anahuicalli is a masterful museum and you should consider visiting it as well.
Popular Art Museum – this museum was a complete surprise to us. Located very near to the Diego Rivera Mural Museum, you can easily combine the two. The layout of this museum is a bit strange, because it is located inside an old firehouse. But the preservation of Mexico folk art and handicrafts is definitely worth a visit. Baskets, textiles, sculpture, pottery, paper mache and much more. I enjoyed it very much.
Day Trip
Puebla and Cholula – we used VIATOR to take an all day tour to Puebla and the great pyramid of Cholula. We learned a lot about this fascinating region of Mexico, which was new to us. Our guides were enthusiastic and informative. I think if you have the time you should spend more than one day though. I would have liked a couple of days in the beautiful city of Puebla. It’s a long day, but if you can, I recommend a visit. It is possible to go by bus from CDMX and less expensive than a tour, but you should consider staying overnight if you take the bus.
How to Get Around
Do Not Uber. Seriously, traffic in Mexico City is bad, and a taxi or Uber will be slow and expensive. Take the subway. We went everywhere on the subway. It is clean, efficient, on time, safe and CHEAP ($0.25 per ride). Don’t fear the subway in Mexico City.
Safety
We felt safe every where we went in CDMX. As in any city, there are areas you should avoid. Mexico City is well known for protests on any day and at any time. Be prepared for detours due to protests. For your protection don’t participate in protests. The subway is safe, and stay in the tourist areas. Hire guides to visit other areas, including if you want to visit the gigantic La Merced Market. And be aware, drivers in Mexico are fast and aggressive, but usually yield to pedestrians in cross walks. Be a smart and aware traveler as you would in any destination and you will enjoy this beautiful city.
Where to Stay
Casa de la Luz – our past two visits we stayed at the fabulous Red Tree House boutique hotel in the Condesa neighborhood. It wasn’t available this time, so we chose Casa de la Luz in the historic center. Wow. We absolutely loved this beautiful hotel, the staff and the amazing breakfast. It was also really great to be within walking distance of all the major attractions as well as several subway stations. We paid $150 USD per night – a bargain for what we got.
Where to Eat
Tezontle – Little did we know when we booked our hotel Casa de la Luz that it was home to one of the best restaurants in the historic center of the city. On our final night in the city we had an exceptional meal that included ceviche, tableside salsa preparation, mushroom salad, tableside soup preparation and more. Served with a smile.
Roldan 37 – I saw a suggestion on Instagram for Roldan 37, and I jumped right on it because it was only a few blocks from our hotel. Wow. We loved our meal here in a beautiful unique space in a new-to-us neighborhood. This restaurant we highly recommend ordering the customized tableside preparation of guacamole – don’t leave out the chapulines (toasted grasshoppers)! We loved this entire meal.
Sanborns – Frida and Diego loved to “be seen” here, and you should too. Even if you don’t get into the beautiful restaurant, you should at least admire the gorgeous blue tiled building, known as La Casa de los Azulejos. The building has been home to Sanborns Department store, and famous restaurant since 1919.
Eat Like a Local Mexico – and another shout out for Eat Like a Local. Because you will never leave an Eat Like a Local tour hungry. Offering both day, night, market and other unique tour options. This is where you really get to know the food of the people of Mexico City.
Mexico City Third Time’s a Charm
Third time IS a charm. But I suspect we aren’t yet done with this amazing city. There are many more museums, restaurants, historic sites, markets and oh my goodness, so much food yet to enjoy. Mexico City. One of the most incredible cities in all the world…and you know I am qualified to say so. We will visit again.
As always I thank you for your continued support and interest in the work we do here. I invite you to comment and ask questions, to share and to pin. Come back next week for more about amazing Mexico. It never gets old.
See last week’s post Visit San Miguel de Allende Mexico. Another amazing Mexico city. Gracias.
